Initial Update from Colombo

Wed – Thurs, 30 Nov – 1 Dec 2005
Initial thoughts, bloated and lacking fluidity from all the tea and champagne

After living it up for my last few days in New York by visiting friends, Lower East Manhattan cafes and flea markets, the South-east Asian exhibits at the Metropolitan Museum of Art and taking advantage of the mild weather in Central Park, I finally embarked on my journey to Sri Lanka. There had been some delay with the paperwork, due to bureaucracy at the human resource office in Bangkok and the backlog of visa approvals at the Sri Lankan Ministry of Foreign Affairs. In August, the Minister was assassinated creating increased security concerns and understandably, more red tape. I will try to comment the best I can about the current conflict in Sri Lanka, its politics and some ramifications of the newly elected Marxist president, (but from the advice of many close people, I will try to stay out of these politics, avoid discussing my perspectives on the American Empire whilst residing here, and stay as anonymous as possible – I really must learn to be more diplomatic about these things, and not as impassioned, without justification). However, I will attempt to work on other humanitarian projects, through volunteering, which deal with broader subjects such as relief, trade justice for small farmers and improving poverty alleviation.

In the meantime I have been doing some preliminary research on the Thai intellectual property rights (IPR) regime with respect to granting compulsory licensing for generic AIDS medicines. Could Thailand fill a gap for developing countries, by producing cheap meds and using south-south ties to get around US-led pharmaceutical doctrine, regarding the ludicrous 20-year patent monopoly rule on medicines? In addition, I have been trying to wrap my head around OECD countries’ financial aid for trade capacity-building (there’s that fun phrase again), regarding technical assistance in finding the best components of free trade agreements to suit least developed countries’ (LDCs’) development needs. Frankly, I think free trade will always be dodgy no matter how many flexibilities are used, but I’ve got to use UNDP development language and their acceptance of trade liberalization as effective in reducing poverty. (For a good time, look up UNDP’s definition of poverty…hm, there might be a lack of agency in impoverished peoples’ lives. Also, in my contract I do not think I can have conflicts of interest about the material, so no coarse, activist propaganda, and my intellectual diarrhoea will be copyrighted, or owned by the international organisation for which I work). What has been notable in the South-east Asian context in recent regional talks is the shift toward or larger attempts at south-south negotiations, that is, fulfilling one developing countries’ trade demands by seeking out partnerships with other developing countries, rather than continually relying on Northern ‘expertise’, supplies, etc. Or this is what I gather initially from the literature…

So from the start I am very excited about researching these different aspects and being challenged to become more familiar with the entire South Asian and Pacific trade context. Moreover, the treatment and outreach from the staff at this international organisation has been immensely helpful, patient and understanding. I think I will really enjoy learning from my new colleagues.

There are indeed a few surreal aspects to this kind of job opportunity, which I am struggling to negotiate. For instance, I flew business class on Emirates Airlines, amongst presumably wealthy individuals. I am interested to know who goes to Dubai for a good time…the odd yachting, horse race or oil crisis negotiation. It is very plush with chairs that massage, I drink champagne , and eat things called canapés . Also, I learned how to deal better with sycophantic airline personnel. “No, no thank you, I do not want to buy duty-free gems extracted using the worst kind of mining methods.” “Yes, that’s right, I’m young, on a student salary , and dress in jeans, excuse the offence at my very casual, thrift store attire.” “Do you not think that this lounge is wasting enormous amounts of food, water, electricity, and that genuineness is lost in this class type? Maybe we could turn off a few of these 800 lamps in the lounge; save a few trees by shifting to cloth (or hemp) napkins?” Not to be ungrateful or sarcastic (I am trying to leave these kinds of traits, commonly found in the West, behind), but I am not used to this lifestyle. I will no doubt have more income than most people I will meet in Sri Lanka and I will be able to live in a style of comfort that can be seen as absurd at times. Apologies in advance for some of my future brash comments, and I am still trying my best to deal with this change to a style of luxury by my standards. Moreover, when I arrived in Colombo I am initially put up in a 5-star hotel, the Colombo Plaza, now called Cinnamon Grand Hotel. I will send pictures of this outlandish ostentatiousness. I’m not quite sure how one researches poverty-related issues, the lunatic problems associated with IPR and best strategies for trade agreements when living in the lap of luxury, surrounded by other expatriates and tourists. We shall find out if this approach works best for contracted personnel at this large international development organisation, or reproduces loftiness and disconnect. I certainly look forward to when I can rent my own flat or maybe live with a family.

I arrived in Colombo Thurs. afternoon, greeted by the 400% humidity and 30-degree C tropical weather. From my first few conversations with Sri Lankan people, I think they are lovely, friendly and polite, and I think the women are stunning! An hour taxi drive into the city showed me another aspect because one must fight it out on the roads. Lots of cutting off, last minute stops and swearing. Madness across 7 informal/4 demarcated lanes, with a combination of cars, lorries, tuk-tuks, buses, motorcycles, bicycles, and pedestrians, with the odd train crisscrossing the highway. The road to the airport is lined with maquiladoras, housing Sri Lanka’s enormous garment industry. As comfortable as it is in North America to avoid discussing sweatshops (that everything we wear is made in them), exploitative labor or export-processing zones, you cannot avoid it here. They are everywhere, engulfing the city, and my taxi ride occurred right when many shift workers were leaving. I am not sure if the factories close at 5pm, or if a new shift takes over, but I am sure hours are stretched when factories must meet shipment deadlines. (Shipment deadlines, for instance, around back-to-school bonanzas and holiday hulla-baloo). At first I was in awe at the sight of brightly-clothed women, ranging from late teens to middle age, holding their long skirts, saris, and floral parasols, all walking in a strange parade, as they left their work. We know this is a women-driven industry, on the production and consumption ends, but is this also amusement, cute, engaging for men? It is interesting to see that many men stop their work in adjoining repair shops, restaurants and banks to hang around outside to witness this procession.

Something that is violently eating at me are the contradictions I simultaneously occupy. I am rich by Sri Lankan cost of living standards, but still feel like a poor student. I want to live modestly, but I must first live alongside the rich and famous (oddly, Michael Bolton is staying at my hotel, apparently catering to his large musical following in Sri Lanka—who knew?!). Already I am repulsed, nearly vomited at the reception counter, at the naivete and egocentrism of a couple other European tourists (and their derogatory treatment of hotel staff: that they should be waited on continuously and that staff gave them wrong directions on purpose).
I am also simultaneously too young and too mature. Sycophantic airline personnel, cluttering my head space, while hanging around me to satisfy any of my whims, indignantly kept asking me how old I was and suggested that I was too young to be in business class. Fair enough. Meanwhile, a couple people, including the taxi driver, questioned my marital status and why I am traveling alone. Apparently, at 24, I am too old not to be married and that I am a disgrace to my family because ‘they have to continue to take care of me?!’ No doubt not too many young women (all over) have this opportunity, nor can be this self-sufficient. And what I fear is that these contradictions – in trying to sort them out or by feeling guilty - might negatively influence my motivations for being here, for wanting to volunteer and for wanting to work in international development. ‘I will try the best I can…the best I can is good enough’? –Radiohead

On a final note, when I arrived in Colombo I had an evening to adjust, then I had to take care of the work visa on Friday. This weekend, I have been invited by colleagues to attend an Economic Journalists conference in Negombo, about an hour drive north of Colombo. It will be held at another plush beach resort (what?!), to discuss bilateral agreements in the region. I think it will be a fantastic opportunity to meet my new colleagues and learn a few things about the surrounding area of Colombo. Also, I have many travel ideas so that I can explore the country, (I would love to hike Adam’s Peak, and see pre-colonial palatial capitals Anuradhapura and Kandy, but I will most likely miss the annual elephant polo tournament in January --Elephants are a huge deal here! Lots of festivals and rites for celebrating them). I have also come across a couple awesome volunteer organizations. Habitat for Humanity has been a bit evasive, but I hope to get in contact by phone when I arrive. There is also MONLAR, a network of local farmers that is trying to come up with alternative trading strategies, which take into account small farmers’ concerns. As well, MONLAR facilitates seed sharing and provides some rehabilitative assistance for farmers devastated from the tsunami. I will elaborate on these possible volunteer opportunities once I am more settled and receive feedback. I should first see what are the demands for the UNDP job, as I will work at least 10-12 hour days. A lot less than I was spending in the Globn programme, so I hope there will be time for volunteering and traveling, which I could not do so much while in Canada.

These are just my initial thoughts as I begin this amazing opportunity. I hope to start a blog or photo journal to share with you. Hope everything is well on your end and more greetings later.

Missing you.

Peace.