Xmas 2005

Descended from Adam’s Peak after 7;30am, with the brilliance of plotting hot sun rising before all of our eyes. A whole other world goes to sleep or takes their Christmas Eve nightcaps, dreaming of what gifts will be under the tree or mulling over the family get-together. But in this Buddhist paradise of Sri Lanka, marred by previous (and possibly new) civil war hells, there’s just the hum of synchronized chants, chilly night air, and throngs of exhausted yet enthusiastic pilgrims. You have to climb about half a million steps to reach this nirvana, with Xmas lighting and neon shops, along the way. Because of this mass ascension it feels like something beyond any other cultural, musical or religious gathering, as you see wizened men with one leg or women carrying babies or middle aged shopkeepers balancing on their heads steel roof shingles or bundles of wood for their cooking fires. Can you imagine climbing about 2.5 hours a day, maybe 2 to 4 times, to maintain your small shop of rotis, Fanta and other snacks, for 500 people with little money, and 30 rich tourists who try to rip you off???! I don’t know how many of these hard working people maintain their good nature and sense of humor! And most of us in the West flip out over really small things, (like hand gestures in traffic). It really puts to shame any utterance of a complaint that I might have about anything in the world…ever.

Although I cannot understand a single word of Sinhala or Tamil, apart from Sutu (or gringa), I still know when people talk about me, even for a split second. Of course, there are way better things to talk about…but at the top of 2243m, this non-practicising Buddhist Sutu received sideways glances and giggling, presumably cos I’m there just to check out dawn. Instead I will most likely offend Buddha in the process. The hike is done at night, after Duruthu poya (December full moon) day, as there are less rains, it is cooler and you get to witness sunrise and the peak’s dangling shadow. When you reach the top you must take off your shoes and hats, and you can offer a small donation for a blessing, but must tap your head to the ground, 3 times, in front of Buddha. Mostly Buddhists, some Muslims and Hindus and clusters of tourists visit the top, which houses several food shops and a temple fitted with a large donations office.